The Bosphorus
Setting the scene
Waterway of Dreams by David Barchard • 34 A Farewell to Empire by Philip Mansel ■ 46 The Woods and the Water by David Wheeler ■ 62 Boating with Billy by Patricia Daunt • 120
City Bosphorus
The European Shore
Port to Palace Karaköy to Ortaköy, by Andrew Finkel ■ 40 Yıldız Palace, Park and Mosque • 49
The Anatolian Shore
Asia Fantasia Kadıköy to Üsküdar, from tea gardens to hilltop mosques • 64
Village Bosphorus
The European Shore
Istanbul’s Riviera Village by village, from Kuruçeşme to Sarıyer • 124 The Anatolian Shore
From Sea to Shining Sea All the way up from Beylerbeyi to the Black Sea -158
Postscript
Memories Light the Corners of My Mind Maureen Freely on her childhood Bosphorus • 202
Connoisseur
Lady Mary’s son makes a fortune, Liotard’s Bosphorus beauty heads north, and other arts news • 7 Well-Heeled Ottomans The shoe show at the Sadberk Hamm Museum • 10
Books
Yaşar Kemal, İrfan Orga’s lost novel, Seljuk Sinop, plus a tribute to the botanist Asuman Baytop • 17 Hello Constantinople The Prince of Wales’s Ottoman tour, by Sophie Gordon • 24
Cookery
Earthly Delights The irresistible lure of the humble potato, by Berrin Torolsan • 206
Regulars
Private View by Andrew Finkel • 14 Letter from Anatolia Yaşar Kemal, by Roger Norman • 216
Eating Out by Andrew Finkel • 219

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