Heading East: Norman Stone gives a short history of Kars, Ali Konyalı captures the architecture, Michael Hornsby and Kate Clow conquer the Kaçkars, Raf Jah catches the train, Charles Perry tastes the Black Sea, Ahmet Baytaş steps into butterfly paradise. Plus Christian Tyler on The Queen of the Uighurs, Maureen Freely on Istanbul impressionists, Berrin Torolsan on peppers hot and sweet

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