CONTENTS COVER STORY: The Shock of the Old: Harold Hauptmann and Klaus Schmidt's momentous discovery of Neolithic temple art in southeast Turkey. CONNOISSEUR: The Rise and Fall of the Attornan Empire: A scintillating drama in 1,800 volumes, by Jason Goodwin. London's saleroom highlights. PROFILES: The Art of Letter Writing: Emin Barın's cutting-edge calligraphy, by Elizabeth Meath Baker. The Good Fight: Sir Herbert Chermside, soldier, diplomat, peacekeeper, by David Barchard. NEW BOOKS: The provocative new novel by Orhan Pamuk reviewed by Maureen Freely; Laurence Kelly's stranger-than-fiction life of Alexander Griboyedov reviewed by Antony Wynn . Travel: Wild about Ida: the glorious flora of Kaz Dağı and the Vale of Troy, by Martyn Rix. INTERIORS: Treasures of a Lost Dynasty: the Hotel Nissim de Camondo, by Patricia Daunt. Photographs by Jean Marie del Moral. COOKERY: The Milky Way: puddings from the homely to the hedonistic, by Berrin ToroIsan. REGULARS DESPATCHES by Andrew Finkel. TRADE SECRETS: The glass bead revival, by Elizabeth Meath Baker. VILLAGE VOICES by Azize Ethem. ISTANBUL DIARY: Restaurant review s by Andrew Finkel; Notes on the Music Festival, by Ateş Orga.

---