Attar of roses: revealing Anatolia's liquid gold and the basis of all fine scents: rosewater. Brian Sewell follows in the footsteps of Alexander the Great, and Molly Izzard looks at Freya Stark's exploits in Turkey. Plus we go in search of the hay meadows of Bithynia, the painted rug, Orientalist interiors in London and Glasgow, and serve up a bouquet of deliciously fragrant-scented dishes.

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