CONTENTS: Part One: City on the Straits - The Big Bazaar - The Sahaflar - Carpets Galore Part Two: The City - The Secret History - Survivors - Ottoman Istanbul - The Palace of the Sultans - Mosques and Minarets - Ghosts and Goblins - Living Islam - Turkish Baths - A Vanishing Grace - The Orient Express - The Once and Future City - The Living City -Cops and Rubbers - Sailing Within Byzantium - Off Limits - A Garland of Villages - Strategic Defile - Ethnic Remnants - Away from the City Part Three: Turkish Delights - Music - Arts and Culture - Hotels and Bars - 1001 Nights Part Four: Travel Tips - Art/Photo Credits - Index - Maps

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